J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2026 Jul;19(7):10-15.
ABSTRACT
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate clinical applications, efficacy profiles, and delivery strategies of vitamin C and its derivatives in dermatology.
METHODS: A systematic review of PubMed and Scopus identified studies published from 2020 onward, evaluating topical, injectable, or systemic vitamin C formulations. Of 263 screened publications, 44 met inclusion criteria. Data were extracted regarding derivative type, delivery platform, and outcomes.
RESULTS: Ascorbic acid remains the most clinically validated formulation, with low-pH stabilized systems and L-ascorbic acid, vitamin E, and ferulic acid-type complexes consistently improving photoaging, structural aging, pigmentary disorders, and periprocedural healing. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate shows superior lipophilic stability, benefiting pigmentary and structural aging. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is preferred for sensitive skin but requires acetyl zingerone stabilization. Ascorbyl glucoside with or without arginine is well tolerated for chronic hyperpigmentation. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate improves texture and pigmentation, particularly when paired with microneedling. Bis-glyceryl ascorbate demonstrates niche utility for preventing tyrosine kinase inhibitor-associated hand-foot skin reaction. Ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate emulgels provide rapid pigment lightening. Across modalities, procedural delivery-microneedling, jet injection, and radiofrequency-assisted laser import-enhances penetration and clinical response. Dietary vitamin C at 40 to 80 mg per day offers modest systemic photoprotection, hydration, and wrinkle-smoothing benefits, even without overt deficiency.
LIMITATIONS: Study heterogeneity and a paucity of standardized data, particularly regarding diverse phototypes, restrict direct comparison; further research is required to guide optimal dermatologic use.
CONCLUSION: Clinical effectiveness of vitamin C depends on derivative chemistry, vehicle, pH, stabilization strategy, and delivery method. Personalized selection by skin type, treatment goals, and delivery modality is essential.
PMID:42761976 | PMC:PMC13588479